However, since we thoroughly enjoyed being beekeepers, we decided to just go all in, make another hive and order two sets (one queen and 3 pounds of bees in each set) so that we would have two! Not only would we have more pollinators for our fruit/nut orchard and our vegetable/herb garden, but we would also enjoy more honey and bees wax with another hive. Besides, it would also double our chances of success getting a hive to survive the winter!
This spring, once Ray was up to it and well on his way to healing (that story here), he made another top bar hive box in pretty much the same manner as our last one. We did change a few things so there would be better ventilation, but the dimensions are pretty much the same so that we can share the top bars with each other. Making this hive took a lot less time because we knew what we were doing. We will see how everything goes this year and if the colonies make it through the winter, but we are hoping to make our third hive next spring! 🙂
We bought our bee packages from Oliverez Bees, just as we did last year. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a picture of the install. I could give you some excuses, but the truth is that I was so excited and nervous that I simply forgot! However, I did get a shot of the bees through the window viewing area just a few short weeks after they were installed. Holy cow, these gals are building comb like gangbusters!
But then, one day about a month ago I saw this…
Ugh! Is that the deformed wing virus caused by the varroa mite? I did a lot of research and, yes, it was probably the DWV. UGH! UGH! What were we going to do? We wanted to have organic hives and not use miticide. In fact, one reason we decided to use top bar hives was that the cells are smaller in Top Bar Hives (TBH), which produce smaller bees faster, which reduces the impact of varroa mites! We knew that, unfortunately, there was probably no way to get around having varroa mites, which can kill a colony, but instead we could try to control them.
Another potential cause of the deformed wing virus, however, is pollen collected from the California Buckeye tree, which causes this deformity in brood. And we have seen some California Buckeye Trees around. If this was the cause, and all the brood was not effected, then the colony might be okay.
Well, when the bee with DWV was found, we were at the beginning of another honey flow. There were lots of flowers blooming – especially the blackberries! And the weather report said that we were in for a week or so of 100+ degree weather down in the valley, though thankfully it wouldn’t get that hot here.
In researching miticides, I read that you do not want to apply during either a honey flow or during extreme heat, so even if our hive was being infected with the DWV, we had no choice but to watch it die right in front of our eyes. The worst part of watching the hive die was knowing that the other hive would probably also be effected. UGH!
So, the heat came and went! Let me tell you, it was Hot Hot Hot!
When we checked on the hives a couple of weeks later, it was amazing! They had literally doubled in size! They weren’t dying at all, they were thriving!!
So… how could this be? I was actually prepared for another funeral! Time for more research (don’t you just love Google?), and I think I may have found the answer. I read on an entomologist’s research paper that while honeybees can live in 130-140 degree temperatures in the hive, the varroa mite cannot! Wow!
So, if the DWV was caused by the varroa mite, the heat may have come at just the right time! Of course, if the DWV was caused by the California Buckeye tree, then we will probably see some young bees with DWV every year in the future because we cannot cut down all the Buckeye trees within a honeybee’s foraging radius, nor would we want to.
What we can do is plant more flowering fruits and vegetables and ornamentals that are good for bees, to keep them foraging at home.
Right now we have a small vegetable garden where our bees forage, and there are also numerous wildflowers around. In the spring the bees can forage from our fruit and nut orchard. Once our house is built we plan to have grapes, boysenberries and blueberries and will also plant a few more fruit trees here and there. Furthermore, I want to expand our herb garden, which at this point includes rosemary, thyme, oregano, lavender and sage, which I know the honeybees just adore!
Here it is mid-summer, and during a hive inspection I took a picture of some of the comb while Ray was lifting them up. Although we didn’t plan to harvest any honey, we felt it was necessary to take one comb from the larger hive (the new one) as it was almost full. The bees already had comb on about 2/3 of the top bars! A full hive is one that will potentially swarm, which is something you definitely do not want! We also moved a few empty bars in around the center of the hive, to let the bees see that there was still a lot more room in there.
We chose one comb that had mostly capped honey and very little brood. I extracted the honey by crushing the beeswax comb and hanging it in cheesecloth above a bowl for about twenty-four hours. Once most of the honey had drained out of the comb, I put the beeswax on a paper plate and set it outside about 20 feet away from the beehives. The bees clean the honey off the wax in a day or two. I flipped the wax over and the bees obligingly cleaned up the rest of the honey. I put the almost clean beeswax into the freezer and will finish cleaning it up later.
We got about a cup of honey from this small harvest. This honey is very sweet and a bright golden yellow – perfect for cornbread! Yummmmmm…
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