Using The WHOLE Orange!

recipe for orange peel and chocolate candy

We had the most marvelous navel orange tree at our home in the valley.  We planted the tree soon after we moved in and enjoyed it’s wonderful, healthful fruit ever since. That is, until we had to leave it behind when we sold our home so that we could move up to our new homestead.

We eat oranges for dessert with dark chocolate…

A bite of orange.  A bite of chocolate.  Repeat.  Good thing mandarins are just as good this way, because we were able to move our potted mandarin up to our new homestead.

How to candy orange peelA while ago I followed a recipe for candied orange peels that I found in a wonderful book called 1/4 acre farm. They were absolutely devine!  The orange peels ended up with a wonderful chewy texture and were beautifully translucent.  Really, you have to try this!  I was so proud of the fact that we were actually using the whole orange!

But then I made those candied orange peels again yesterday, and when the candy was done, I kept thinking about how good they smelled and how my fingers got so slippery when I was scraping the pith from the orange peel oil.

Orange oil.

Wait…      ORANGE OIL!

I wondered – if I saved the water that the orange peels were gently boiled in, would there be any orange oil floating on the top when it cooled down?  I had to try it, which meant I had to make another batch of candied orange peels.  Ah Shucks.  😉

But, instead of dumping the water the peels were boiled in (the orange peels are boiled in water 3 times), I saved it all in a large pan.  When the water has cooled enough to handle, I used a funnel and poured the water into a large glass bottle, like these…

Brewing Fermented Sweet Tea

I bought the front two, clear bottles at IKEA. The darker bottle in the rear was purchased at a craft brewery nearby.  Just flipping the bale and slowly decanting the water seemed to work just fine.

When filled to the brim, I inverted the bottle, and carefully placed it upside down into the refrigerator.  Why?  Oil and water separate – especially when chilled.  After a few hours of chilling, I slowly (very slowly), without inverting the bottle, let the water trickle out of the bottom.  My thought was that oil generally floats, so if I let the water out of the bottom, the oil would be left on the top.  I stopped decanting the water when there was about an inch or so left in the bottle.  Then I poured in more water and followed the same procedure. Once I had done this with all the boiled water, I could definitely see a sheen of oil on the top of the water.

Yes indeedy, I had orange peel oil!

I poured the oil with the last bit of water into another smaller amber colored bottle for storage.  Since this bottle had a dropper, I got rid of more of the water by sucking out from under the oil layer – remember, oil floats!  This is what I ended up with before sucking all of the water out from underneath:

How to make your own orange oil

can you see it… right there in the middle of the jar? Orange Oil! Wahoo!

I know if I had a small distiller, I would be able to get a lot more oil out of the orange peel, and I also need to experiment with different methods of extracting the oil.  I am also going to see if it makes a difference whether I separate the water and oil when it is still hot, or let it get cold first. Then, I want to see if I can do the same thing with our lemon and mandarin trees!

What will I do with my orange soap made from turkey fatoil? Make orange scented soap!  Or my version of lip balm! Or orange scented beeswax candles!  Or…  well…  you get the picture.  

The best part?  I KNOW this is organic oil because the peels came from my tree which we do not spray! We already miss that tree, since right now is the time the oranges are beginning to ripen. Hopefully, someday, if we can build a walipini, we will again be able to plant another orange tree.

Have you extracted oil from orange peels?  Do you have a better method you would like to share?

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Turkey & Hamburger Soap

Yup.  I did it.  I made soap out of

dun dun duuuuuunnnnn…….

Make soap from turkey fat and hamburger grease

 

Hamburger grease and turkey fat!

Eewwww, you might say.  Well, let me tell you, it actually made quite a nice bar of soap!

Seriously! How to make soap from hamburger grease and turkey fat

Just look at this pretty, creamy white bar of soap!

If this is something you might fancy doing, just save all of your (previously discarded) cooking fats!

All of them. Just keep your hamburger grease in one container, your chicken fat in another, etc., because each fat requires just a slightly different amount of lye (sodium hydroxide) for the chemical reaction of saponification to work it’s soapmaking magic!

When I boiled the Thanksgiving turkey carcass, along with all the skin and parts unknown, before it cooled down too much I strained the broth into a large saucepan, then set it into the refrigerator overnight.  The next morning I had a nice creamy layer of turkey fat sitting on top of some wonderfully healthy turkey broth.  Just carefully lift the fat off the top of the broth, scrape anything off the bottom that isn’t clean white fat, pop it into a container and then into the freezer!  You can also do this with chicken fat, duck fat, just about any kind of poultry you have! Once you have enough for a batch of soap – Make Soap!

Soap from Hamburger grease

You can pour your hamburger grease into a paper cup, cleaned milk carton, cleaned tin can – whatever you have (thought it’s harder to get it out of a can). When hardened, pop it out of the container and store in a baggie or some sort of air-tight container in the freezer.

The hamburger fat?  Well, to be technical, hamburger fat is really just another name for tallow!  When you brown your hamburger, save the fat that you drain off into a cup or tin can, then pour in just a touch of hot water and set it in the fridge to cool. Once the fat is congealed on the top of the water, you have tallow!

Did you know you can also make soap with bacon grease?  Yes Indeedy!

Because of the chemical process called saponification, you can make soap out of just about any kind of fat or oil known to man!  I suppose that if the SHTF anytime soon, I could make soap out of chipmunk fat, though I’m not sure how much chipmunk fat it would take to get a pound of soap!

Sorry, Simon, Alvin and Theodore!  Just joking……. maybe.  😉

So, here is what I did:

After saving my fats, I had 390 grams of turkey fat and 192 grams of tallow.  I went to the handy-dandy calculator at Brambleberry.com and plugged these numbers into their calculator and found that I would need 192 grams of liquid (for this batch I used water, but you could also use milk, tea, coffee, etc.) and 77.29 grams of lye (sodium hydroxide).  The yield would be 850 grams, which is a little less than two pounds of soap.  Cool!

I won’t go through all the details about how to make soap here, you can find that just about anywhere.  You can also peruse several of my other soap making recipes on the soapmaking tab above, or CLICK HERE.

soap made from turkey fat

This soap cut very easily and was a beautiful creamy white color.

Anyway, I decided, when I reached trace, that I would add in some Rosemary essential oil along with Clary Sage. Not because I was afraid of what turkey and tallow soap would smell like, because I have already found out that the chemical reaction of the lye and the fats make the soap smell clean and very pleasant – even without added scents!  But because I enjoy experimenting with different scents!  I am blessed that my daughter-in-law, Wendy, is a distributor of How to make soap with turkey fatDoTerra, a wonderful brand of essential oil.  In fact, for Christmas she gave me some more, along with a wonderful, handy dandy holder! If you would like to try DoTerra essential oils, you can go to her webpage HERE.  So, when I tested the sage and rosemary EO’s together by taking off the lids and holding the two bottles together, swirling them beneath my nose, I liked the combination. I further tested the blend by adding one drop of the Clary Sage on a napkin, then added one drop of Rosemary right on top, let it sit and blend for a few minutes, then smelled it again. I really liked the blend of these two scents.  It was woodsy and clean smelling with just a hint of manliness – a little like one of my husband’s favorite aftershaves. Also, the scent seemed to barrel it’s way right into my sinuses – so I thought this would be a wonderful combination of scents during the winter cold and flu season!      Right?

Besides….    doesn’t sage go well with turkey? 🙂

Well…  ahem…   I wouldn’t call it a mistake….     maybe just a little faux pas.

You see – the soap is reallyHow to make soap out of cooking fats nice and seems to clean well with a good creamy lather. However, every time I smell it I am reminded of Turkey stuffing!  The sage scent took over and I think I added too much!  I also found that I don’t need to use as much DoTerra as I would other essential oils.

Next time I make turkey fat soap, I think I will use a citrus blend. 😉

The soap itself is just a bit softer than a pure tallow or pure lard soap would be, but it’s hard enough to work well in the bath or shower, or at the sink for handwashing.  As you can see from the picture above, I got seven nice sized bars of soap.  Not bad from something most people just throw away!

how to make soap from cooking grease

Have you made soap with any animal fat other than lard or tallow?

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Rebatching Soap

If you have known me for a while, you know how frugal I am.  I don’t just pinch pennies, I crush them!  So, when I found out that you can take small slivers of soap, grate them up, melt them down, and make bath sized bars of soap again, I decided to dive right in.  You know that old saying “everything old is new again”?  Well, this is yet another example, because this is exactly what our forefathers (ahem, foremothers) used to do!

I did a lot of research to find out the best method to do this.  Apparently you can re-melt the soap on the stove, in a crockpot, in the microwave or in the oven.  I’m sure you could also melt soap in a barbecue, but thank goodness I didn’t see a tutorial on that one or I would have tried it!

Seriously, I would have. 🙂

After several tries, I think I have found the easiest and simplest method… for me, at least.

how to rebatch soap

A loaf of rebatched soap before being cut into bars. Isn’t it pretty?

Before any of you send me nasty e-mails or curse my first born son about the kind of soap I am using, I am going to add this disclaimer:

“I, Vickie, being of sound mind and body, do solemnly swear that I understand the health implications of using commercially prepared soaps containing caustic and poisonous chemicals and substances which potentially could be damaging to my health”.

That being said, read the first sentence of this post again. 🙂

It’s the same peril when you get a borer in your fruit tree.  If you spray the tree with insecticide, then the fruit can no longer be considered organic.  But if you don’t spray, the tree will die and you will therefore have no fruit!  I prefer to be organic, but that being said, I like to eat also!

Because of the peril that commercial soaps carry, I have recently begun to make my own soaps using home rendered lard and tallow, organic olive oil and coconut oil and pure essential oils.  You can see those posts by clicking on the tab above labeled soapmaking.  So, I hope to think that my penance will soon be paid and any future re-batching will be done with my home-made, totally organic, skin loving soaps.  I promise.

Enough said.

So, If you would like to venture into rebatching your used slivers of soap or even rebatching a bunch of those free soaps you get at the various motels and hotels you have visited, here is how I do it…

 

How to make soap bars out of soap sliversFirst, weigh your slivers to find out how big your batch of soap will be so that you can chose the appropriate mold.  This batch is about 2 pounds (just shy), so I set the free end of my adjustable soap mold at the 2 pound mark and lined the mold with waxed paper. That is when I took the picture below.  But then, mid shred, I found a bit more soap, so I reset the mold at the 3 pound mark but added one block on the inside because my batch was larger than two pounds, but certainly not three pounds. I forgot to take another picture of the mold with just the waxed paper rebatching commercial soap lining it in the three pound plus block position (wow, doesn’t that sound technical!), but you can see what it looks like in the picture below with the soap in the mold. The block is another adjustable end, so if I wanted to I could make two batches of soap at one time.  My husband made this mold for me (he is so clever and handy), and if you would like to see how to make one, go HERE.

making new soap out of old soapNext, either chop, shred, grind or grate your soap.  You want the pieces to be as small as possible.  You can use your cheese grater, your food processor or a cutting board and sharp knife.  The process is a bit tough on my old food processor and I found it to be just as fast and easy using old fashioned elbow grease, a good knife and a cutting board.

Pour the chopped/shredded/ground soap into a heavy bottomed, oven proof saucepan, then place on the stove on low.  I have found that if I start the process on the stove, I can tell if I need to add some more water or not.  With almost two pounds of soap, I started out with 1/2 cup of water.  This seemed to be sufficient because I saw the soap starting to melt on the bottom.  Be careful, though, because it isn’t hard to scorch the soap!  You are just jump starting the melting process at this point.  Once I can see that the soap is melting, I place the saucepan in the oven with a lid on at the lowest temperature your oven will allow.  Mine only goes down to 170 degrees.  After 1/2 hour, stir the soap and assess whether you will need more water or not.  I added just a bit more soap at this point, and the mixture seemed a bit dry, so I added another 1/4 cup of water.  You don’t want to add too much water at this point.  It won’t really hurt anything, but it will take longer for the bars to dry out and be sufficiently hard enough to use!how to make soap out of old soap

The soap was put back into the oven for another 1/2 hour.  At this point I had a fairly loose slurry of soap with small chunks interspersed, which I thought looked really cool, so I went ahead and glopped the soap into my soap mold.rebatched commercial soap

Yes, glopped.  Rebatched soap won’t pour like home-made soap will.  It glops.  Which makes it a bit harder to put into the mold, smooth out the top or get any bubbles out.  No matter, because I’m not entering these bars into the county fair, for heaven’s sake!

If you don’t want to see little chunks of soap in your final rebatched bars (I think it’s pretty, but to each his or her own), you can continue to melt and stir the soap in the oven, but depending on how small you got your chunks/shreds/pieces of soap, you may or may not be successful in getting a completely smooth, one color, no chunk bar of soap.

how to make old soap into new bars of soapLet your soap cool and re-harden in the mold for a day or so, then cut and use.  Unlike home-made soap, you don’t have to wait for re-batched soap to cure because the soap has already gone through the curing process  back when it was manufactured.  However, if you want to rebatch home-made soap that has not fully cured, you should either wait until the curing process (saponification) has been completed before you proceed, or make sure you let the soap cure again until it reaches a pH of 8.5 or less.

There you have it.  Rebatched soap.

I did a little calculating with this batch of soap.  The rebatched soap  was approximately 2 pounds and cost elbow grease and a little bit of energy, but certainly less energy than it would cost in gas to run to the store.  At Walmart, if I were to purchase about the same amount and same kind of soap, online it shows an 8 pack of 3.75 ounce bars (a couple ounces less than 2 pounds) of Irish Spring for $ 3.75

So, essentially I saved $3.75.  Yes, I agree, that’s not so much.  But it was fun and I had an hour to kill.  Plus…  I like to pinch pennies!how to make new soap from old

Actually, this is one of those skills that is good to know.  It’s not uncommon for soap makers to rebatch their botched batches of soap!  Say that one three times!  If a soap maker discovers that not enough lye was used, the fragrance was a bit off, etc., rebatching can save the cost of making the soap.

Oh, I forgot to mention something.  In case you were wondering…  no, rebatching used soap is NOT going to spread germs.  Period.  Most viruses are killed by 108 degree fahrenheit temperatures.  That’s why our bodies get a fever when we are sick!  And as any cook knows, pretty much all bacteria are toast when they reach 160 degrees fahrenheit. When you melt your soap in a 170-ish degree oven, all of that is taken care of!

So, what do you think?  Would you ever rebatch soap?

2 Crochet Hooks

 

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Lard and Olive Oil Soap

This past fall, Spring, a good friend of my daughter-in-law, Wendy, butchered a pig and was kind enough to give me the fat.  Thank you again, Spring!

crockpot renderingI rendered the fat into a white, beautiful, creamy lard.  I had never done this before, so after researching different methods of rendering lard, I decided to try two different ways to see which one I liked the best.  You can see that article here, called Rendering Lard – Two Ways.

What to do with the lard?  Make soap, of course!  Animal fat is the traditional ingredient in soap, using either lard or tallow (tallow is beef fat), along with olive oil, which makes a wonderful hard bar of soap called Castile.

After reading numerous books on soapmaking and watching dozens of You Tube videos, I felt like I was ready to try.  I was a bit leery of the whole lye bit, but decided to take a deep breath and jump on the soapmaking bandwagon anyway!

The first thing I had to do wasDIY Wooden Soap Mold gather all the equipment, which in the grand scheme of things, isn’t a whole lot.  My dear husband made me a beautiful adjustable soap mold (you can see the directions on how to make one HERE) and I also bought PVC pipe with two end caps to make a round soap.

My first experiment was with the round soap mold.  I used the soap lye calculator at brambleberry.com (easy to use) and printed out my recipe.  I decided to use olive oil along with the lard because olive oil is known to make a gentle and mild-to-the-skin bar of soap that cures into a hard bar that won’t melt too fast in water.    Besides, one of the reasons for making my own soap is self sufficiency, and we will be planting olive trees this spring, so we will have our own source for olive oil in a few years.

Here is the recipe I used:  Recipe for Lard and Olive Oil Soap

First, I gathered all my materials.  Since my tap water has both chlorine and fluoride, I decided to go with the distilled water.  When we move up to our future homestead (soon!) I will use either well water or rainwater to make my soaps.  The olive oil I used came from a family friend who produces olive oil from his own orchard, because I knew it was pure. Thanks Ken!  I was able to find the lye at a local farm and feed store, which was lucky because I understand that lye is hard to find nowadays due to it’s use in making methamphetamines.  My digital kitchen scale worked perfect as did my digital kitchen thermometer.  My daughter-in-law sells doTERRA essential oils and has gifted me with several different oils, so I decided to use the lavender essential oil for my first batch of soap.  Lavender essential oil is known for it’s antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as it’s ability to calm, decrease depression and induce sleep!  For more information about essential oils, you can visit my daughter-in-law’s website HERE.  I am not an affiliate of doTERRA, but have come to really appreciate the quality of their oils.

How to make lard and olive oil soap

Ingredients all lined up and ready to go (minus the olive oil and lard). The vinegar is standing by to neutralize any possible splashes of lye.

Here we go:  The first thing I did was line my mold with waxed paper.  Easy enough!  The round mold sits upright on it’s own, which is a very good thing!  Then (deep breath), I measured the water and the lye separately and separately took both outside.  I carefully added the lye to the water.  Important!  Never add water to lye!  I’m not sure what happens, but this is a warning I see on every soaping website and tutorial I have ever seen, and this is one experiment I DO NOT want to try!  In fact, I was so nervous this first time pouring the lye into the water, that I read the instructions over and over just to make sure I was doing it right!  Plus, I did it outside so I wouldn’t be exposed to any noxious fumes!  I didn’t get a picture of this part because I was so nervous I forgot!  😉

Olive oil and Lard Soap TutorialNext, I melted the lard and added the olive oil.  I was just a bit nervous at this point because my lard smelled just a bit “piggy”.  I’m not sure if it was because it had been frozen for a while (which might have brought out the scent) or just melting it brought out a stronger smell, but there it was.  Hmmmm…….

Trudging ahead, when the lye water got to about 125 degrees and the lard/olive oil mixture was the same, I brought in the lye and carefully (so it wouldn’t splash) poured it into the lard/olive oil mixture.  Now I am glad I got such a large stainless steel pot, because the lye did splash just a bit, but the drops didn’t make it even half way up the pot!  I carefully used my plastic spoon to gently mix everything together, then with my stick blender on low, began carefully mixing.

The clear lye water and the clear but yellow lard/olive oil mixture turned a creamy antique white color almost immediately!  Lo and behold, within a minute or two of mixing, the “piggy” smell went away also!   So now I had to mix everything with the stick blender anywhere from 5 minutes to 15 minutes, or until I had achieved “trace”.  Of course, other than in pictures and in videos I had never actually, in person, seen trace before, so I was a bit nervous that I wouldn’t know exactly what that was.  Well, let me tell you, you will know what trace is when you see it!  It’s similar to jelly making from scratch.  When a drop or two of the soap holds it’s shape on the surface of the soap, or if you turn off the stick blender and draw it across the soap and it leaves a “wake” behind it, you have achieved “trace”.  That’s the time to add anything else you are putting into the soap, like colorants, herbs, essential oils, etc., so I added the doTERRA Lavender Essential Oil at this point, turned on the stick blender and blended for another minute or so.  The soap was starting to get pretty thick by now (like a stiff pudding), so I knew it was time to get it into the mold.

Actually, I think I waited too long.  It was no longer pourable, so I had to spoon it into the mold.  Easier said than done at this point, since the round mold I was using had only a 3 inch opening!

** Note to self **

Get a good plastic or stainless steel funnel for pouring soap into the round mold!

DIY Lard and Olive Oil Soap

After the bottom of the mold was pried off, the soap just slipped out of the PVC mold.  This is a picture of the soap before the waxed paper was peeled off.

Done!  😀  I was so excited!  I didn’t burn myself or destroy anything with the lye.  I did it!  Wahoo!  I couldn’t wait to see how the soap turned out!  But I had to. 🙁    The instructions say to leave the soap in the mold for 24 to 48 hours.  I decided to go half way and open at about 36 hours.  The soap stuck a little bit to the bottom lid, but once I was able to pry it off, the soap slid easily out of the mold!  Now all I had to do was peel off the waxed paper (easier said than done) and cut the soap into bars.

How to make Lard and Olive Oil Soap

This picture was taken right after the soap was cut, and you can see the different colors in the soap. It reminded me of a cup of latte with a fat decorative pine tree on top! Do you see it? No worries, however, because as the soap cured, it all turned the same shade of white!

I ended up with ten 1″ bars of soap out of this batch.  I then tried stamping designs into the soap with some Stampin’ Up stamps, but I think I may have waited too long to unmold the soap, because it was already getting pretty hard!  I was able to get a slight impression into each bar, however.  Next time I will unmold after just 24 hours.

For my next lard soap, I decided to add in a bit of coconut oil, wild orange essential oil and chai tea.

How to make soap from lard and olive oil

I won’t write all the details, as most of the procedure I followed for this soap were the same as for the first soap.  However, I used 100 grams of the water to make a strong chai tea using four tea bags.  This was added to the lard/olive oil/coconut oil mixture after the lye water was already stirred in.  Supposedly this preserves the scent of the chai tea.  I also added a total of 1/2 teaspoon of ground cinnamon, cloves, ginger and cardamom, and this was all mixed with the stick blender until I reached trace.  Once the soap was at trace, I added the actual contents of the tea bags (that’s what all the speckles in the tea are about) and 10 drops of doTerra Wild Orange Essential Oil.

Chai tea and orange Soap

These are the ingredients used in my Chai tea and Wild Orange lard soap.

Let me tell you, the smell was amazing!  It smelled like sitting by a warm fireplace during a rainy autumn day with friends, drinking chai tea and eating oranges!

However, next time I make this soap, I will add just a bit more of the chai spices – maybe a full teaspoon – because upon unmolding the chai scent had become very subtle.  I think I will also add 15 drops of the EO.  I originally went light on the spices because I know that some can be an irritant to skin, but jeeze louise, one teaspoon in a two pound batch of soap shouldn’t be too much.  Right?

How to make soap with Lard

After slipping the soap out of the mold, I peeled back the waxed paper to reveal a beautiful loaf of soap, then cut into 1″ bars. I got eleven bars of soap from this batch.

While the soap was in the mold for 24 hours, I went to my local craft store and bought one of these wavy soap cutters.  When the soap was unmolded and then cut one inch thick, I ended up with almost perfectly sized 2-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ bars of soap!  Oh, I forgot to mention – see all those dark specks all over the soap to the left?  Along with adding the actual chai tea to the soap, I sprinkled a bit more on the top before I covered it to cure. I thought that would make it look more fancy!

Both batches of soap are now sitting on drying racks in my crafts room so that they can cure.  I will need to cure these for 4-6 weeks before using, so that the lye is completely saponified and will not be harsh on the skin.

Olive Oil and Lard Soap DIY

The soap continues to cure (saponify) and dry on these racks for approximately 4-6 weeks.

This was so much fun, I am totally hooked and want to make some more!  So, my next experiment with making soap will be with the tallow I rendered this past fall.  I can’t wait!

Olive Oil and Lard Soap Recipe

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